From ground to glory: The traditional ‘kolam’ finds a contemporary calling in fashion, food and fiction

Kolam has infiltrated the realms of art decor, textiles, and accessories, establishing itself as a pervasive element.

ByVaishali Vijaykumar

Published Dec 04, 2023 | 1:00 PMUpdatedDec 04, 2023 | 1:00 PM

A cherished and time-honoured custom observed during mid-December to mid-January is the meticulous art of drawing kolam on the threshold of homes, across Tamil Nadu

As we approach Margazhi, the sacred ninth month in the Tamil calendar spanning from mid-December to mid-January, the air is infused with tradition and spirituality. This auspicious period is deeply intertwined with devotion to and the worship of Lord Vishnu. A cherished and time-honoured custom observed during this sacred time is the meticulous art of drawing kolam on the threshold of homes, across Tamil Nadu.

This revered practice is not only embedded in cultural roots but also finds mention in Nachiyar Tirumoli. The book is a collection of 143 verses composed by Andal — the sole female Alvar among the 12 revered Hindu poet-saints of South India and a fervent devotee of Lord Vishnu.

“In her penance to attain Lord Ranganathar, the first thing that Andal does is to clean the threshold and draw a kolam. There’s also literary evidence in the Sangam period which suggests that we, being an agrarian community, consider the entrance to be auspicious. To date, you find women washing the threshold with cow dung water and adorning it with the traditional floor art,” shares Meenakshi Devaraj, a historian specialising in South Indian kolams.

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A colourful comeback

Over time, the intricate tradition— weaving together spirituality, culture, and art — has seamlessly embedded itself into every facet of our lives. From the choice of home decor to textile designs, kolam has a ubiquitous presence, achieving a timeless aesthetic permanence.

 

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Devaraj is crafting a concept-driven design inspired by Thirupaavai, intending to transpose it onto a sari. The pallu of the sari will serve as a canvas. It will illustrate all 30 pasurams through intricately designed kolam patterns.

Divya Vigneshwaran, founder of Hastha, has been working on a similar project. She has been incorporating kolam motifs through block printing onto saris and veshtis. Vigneshwaran tested the waters last Margazhi with Mughal-inspired motifs on veshti. After some experimentation, she started using subtler block prints with kolam designs.

“I was apprehensive if men would accept kolam designs. But we’ve seen a ten-fold increase in demand. They’ve all gracefully embraced the designs. Kolam Calling — our line-up of handblock printed veshti is a bestseller,” she exclaims.

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Beyond visual appeal

The team at Hastha offers kolam prints on umbrellas and t-shirts as well. They have gracefully repurposed the kolam-inspired veshti into table runners, cushion covers, and Christmas decor.

“When we recently put up a stall at the Dastkar exhibition, our fellow North Indian vendors wanted to wear kolam veshtis. They purchased it from us; it was a sweet gesture. There’s a huge novelty to kolam,” she beams with pride.

Likewise, for Sarath Selvanathan, raised in a home rich with cultural influences, kolam holds a significance beyond its visual appeal. It is from this conviction that he has crafted an exclusive collection of nose studs inspired by the intricate patterns of kolams.

 

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The founder and curator of Mookuthi, a homegrown jewellery brand from Chennai, explains, “The kolam collection, in particular, holds a special significance. While its cultural reasons are well-known to many, the kolam mirrors one’s life journey. The pulli or defining dots within a kolam depict the choices that individuals make, intricately shaping the course of their lives, like the course of the kolam.”

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Connecting the dots

Muggulu in Andhra Pradesh, rangavalli in Karnataka, kalamezhuthu in Kerala, rangoli in northern India, alpona in West Bengal, chowk mandana in Rajasthan, joothi chitra in Odisha — kolam manifests in different forms in different cultures. And, each has a specific grammar borrowed from the immediate environment.

It is the blend of similarities and distinctions among these art forms that imparts a distinctive charm to each.

The diversity inherent in this cultural panorama resonated with Kaavya Sampath and Pooja Shirali, co-founders of House of Mirrah, a brand based in Bengaluru.

 

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With Sampath’s South Indian background and Shirali’s Konkani DNA, the duo discovered inspiration in the multifaceted cultural expressions.

“Take Malleshwaram in Bengaluru. It encapsulates a middle-class morning routine where vendors arrive in small cycles to sell flowers. Women wash their hair and delve into the drawing rangolis. The mornings kick off with art, constituting an integral and everyday practice,” pints out Shirali.

Over time, their brand has gained recognition for its DIY kolam kits, imprints, and postcards. Through art walks, they engage participants in colouring kolams.

“We view kolam through an art and cultural lens. They serve as ideal souvenirs, return gifts, and much more. Traditional kolam designs are fading, and it’s crucial to revive and introduce them to younger generations, especially children,” points out Shirali.

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Preserving for posterity

Echoing this sentiment is Coimbatore-based design studio Maniams Design Studio. Drawing inspiration from Indian culture for their children’s toys, they created a puzzle called Krazy Kolam.

Many homes are now incorporating these games into their home decor for festive occasions. Grandparents are embracing the trend of gifting these games to their grandchildren, while organisations are placing bulk orders.

“The puzzles are designed to stimulate creative thinking. With its symmetric motif, it aids in visual perception. We are currently in the process of developing a series tailored for adults, featuring more intricate motifs,” says the founder, Kanaka Ananth.

A kaleidoscope of avatars

Beyond aesthetics, a growing number of picture books are now designed for children. One such is ‘Keshav’s Kolam’, written by Shobha Viswanath and published by Karadi Tales.

The narrative unfolds the enchanting tale of the residents of South Mada Street in Mylapore in Chennai. It showcases how they use a handful of rice flour, a dash of imagination, and a generous amount of heart to bring magic to Keshav’s porch.

Additionally, ‘Kolam Kanna’ by Vibha Batra seems apt for middle-school children to challenge gender stereotypes in a charming way.

A similar activity book called ‘Draw Happiness – My Kolam Tracing Book’ is offered by Kolam Podu Shop. From beginners to seasoned enthusiasts, this activity book is believed to ignite your imagination and hone your fine motor skills.

Bhargavii Mani, the brain behind Kolam Podu, believes in demystifying the beautiful and intricate art form of kolam and presenting it in an accessible manner.

“We believe that kolam is more than just an artistic expression. It is a cultural heritage that deserves to be celebrated, learned, and shared with the world. Our mission is to provide a platform where people from all walks of life can discover, explore, and embrace the magic of kolam,” she highlights.

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A collaborative connect

Through its website, videos, tutorials, and books, Kolam Podu aims to break down the barriers and showcase the beauty, symbolism, and positivity it brings into one’s life.

“We understand that kolam, a traditional art form practiced in South India, can sometimes seem complex and intimidating to those unfamiliar with it. Whether you are a beginner curious about this art form or an experienced artist seeking inspiration, our platform is designed to cater to your needs,” affirms Bhargavii.

Kolam Podu strongly believes in the power of community and collaboration.

“Our main motivation to release books on the subject is to make it more accessible to kids and kids at heart who will benefit from experiencing this wonderful art form,” she underscores.

Preserving our heritage and culture is crucial to providing the next generation with a meaningful connection to their roots. The recent few years has witnessed an increasing community of kolam enthusiasts who are dedicated to maximising its potential. Among these enthusiasts is Sumathy Ramalingam from Dallas.

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Counting on kolams

Much like others, Ramalingam’s childhood in Chennai fostered a deep passion for kolam. Although the frequency of her engagement with this art form slowed down after relocating abroad, it experienced a revival during the COVID-19 pandemic.

“Many have sought creative outlets during this time, and the therapeutic nature of kolam is well-recognised. It’s accessible to all and doesn’t come with a hefty price tag. All you need is a piece of paper,” she says.

Linked with kolam enthusiasts globally, Ramalingam finds inspiration and challenges through design exchanges, all made possible by the Internet.

She emphasises the importance of individuals, especially those living away from their families, staying connected to their roots.

“I draw kolams in public spaces, such as temples and city libraries during festivals, to showcase our culture,” she informs.

Additionally, she actively conducts kolam workshops for children. She also aspires to introduce kolam as a therapeutic tool for working with ageing adults.

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Keep calm and kolam on

Kolam has been life-changing to many people in different ways. For Devaraj, learning and practising intricate sikku kolam has been calming and helped strike a balance in life.

“It demands your concentration and dedication,” says the kolam artist who recently curated a kolam series for Apparao Gallery. She also uses kolam designs to spread important messages on international days.

Mugil’s Delights bakery features cupcakes with kolam motifs in over five flavours. (Supplied)

For a few others like Muhilann Murugan, it has given a sense of purpose and employment opportunity.

The architect who recently turned into an entrepreneur has used kolam as his pastry shop Mugil’s Delights logo.

“The inspiration came from Manohar Devadoss uncle’s book ‘Multiple Facets of My Madurai’. The last page of the book had some intricate kolam designs. Growing up, people used to bully him for finding interest in kolam and this was his way of giving back to them,” reveals Murugan.

The bakery features cupcakes with kolam motifs in over five flavours.

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Drawing a gender-inclusive narrative

“It’s fascinating how kolam allows for diverse permutations and combinations. The design of our logo is inspired by my grandma’s kolam, which is etched in my memory,” he shares.

As a gesture of giving back to the art form during Margazhi, Murugan is welcoming orders for kolam-themed cupcakes.

According to Ravisankar VM, founder of Instagram page, MuraiVaasal, kolam serves as a means to reshape gender roles by instilling confidence in more young individuals to embrace this art form. Among his notable creations is a rainbow-coloured sikku kolam and geometric eye pattern designed for Pride month, which garnered significant attention and likes.

“It was a modest tribute to the queer community. Our goal is to foster a gender-inclusive and diverse environment on our page,” he explains.

Through his additional Instagram venture, PaathiraKadai, Ravisankar promotes the use of kolam rollers and stencils, aiming to inspire young people to explore and engage in kolam artistry.

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Every dot matters

Devaraj asserts that confining it to one’s doorstep restricts its global recognition.

“Ethnomathematics explores mathematical principles in various cultural practices, and kolam stands out as an excellent subject for this study. People from around the globe have engaged in conversations with me, particularly about sikku kolam, acknowledging its intricate mathematical aspects,” she explains.

Mani emphasises the numerous therapeutic benefits that practising this art brings.

Chalu Devan's 2024 calendar is themed around kolams. (Supplied)

Chalu Devan’s 2024 calendar is themed around kolams. (Supplied)

“Engaging in kolam not only enhances creativity but also fosters design thinking and problem-solving. It refines dexterity, memory recall, and cognitive abilities,” she notes.

Enthusiasts shed light on the myriad designs achievable through dots and patterns, urging us to compile a repository of these creative designs.

An extension of this belief is Chalu Devan’s 2024 calendar, which is themed around kolams. She’s been promoting them on her Instagram page pozhudhupokku.

As we segue into a New Year in less than a month, this serves as a subtle prompt for us to safeguard and pass down this art form to future generations.

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