Annie Justine expertly preserves mangoes, meat, and more in timeless recipes passed down through generations.
Annie's YouTube channel has over four lakh subscribers. (Supplied)
The Thamarassery churam (mountain pass), stretching over 14 km, is a majestic bridge connecting the lands of Wayanad and Kozhikode. This mountain pass, iconic enough to have found a mention in many Malayalam movies, presents a breathtaking tapestry of scenic beauty that Kerala has to offer.
Nestled amid the picturesque landscapes of the Thamarassery churam lies the quaint town of Kodenchery, where 36-year-old Annie Justine, a former nurse-turned-homemaker, is revitalising the ancestral food preservation methods that have traversed her family’s lineage for generations.
“Embracing the rich traditions handed down by my mother and grandmother, I have cultivated an unyielding connection with my heritage, shaping my identity in the process. Even during my time working abroad as a nurse, my heart remained tethered to my naadu (my homeland). In 2019, I returned to Kerala for good. At the end of the same year, I launched my YouTube channel — Leafy Kerala. Today, I have over four lakh subscribers.”
Annie’s roots run deep in the region; her family migrated from Kottayam, Idukki, and Muvattupuzha areas to the hilly terrain of the Kozhikode-Wayanad border, nearly 80 years ago.
Their frugal lifestyle and reverence for nature nurtured in her an appreciation for utilising every part of vegetables and animals.
Annie believes that food scarcity and limited crop production or agriculture might have been the primary reasons behind preserving food.
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By doing so, they could make it last longer and have a reliable source of nourishment in the absence of fresh produce.
“I learnt to extract the utmost value from every available resource,” Annie reflects. “In the olden times, when a buffalo was slaughtered, nothing went to waste; every part — from cerebral matter to hooves — was cooked and consumed.”
This astute resourcefulness permeated their approach towards vegetables and fruits as well.
“If we consider the jackfruit — we don’t merely consume the ‘fruit’ part. We transform the seeds into delectable curries and stir-fries. We make chakka podi, where each jackfruit pod undergoes a meticulous process of separation, cleansing, sun-drying, powdering, and dry-roasting, before being fit for use as a condiment,” Annie explains.
Among her special preserves is the manga thera. It is prepared by skillfully blending ripe mangoes into a smooth pulp.
This luscious pulp is then carefully spread out on ola paayas (coconut-frond mats), rolled up into layers, and left to bask under the sun before it achieves perfection.
The manga thera-making video on YouTube, the most popular on her channel, has garnered over 20 lakh views so far.
Through this method, Annie is able to extend the mangoes’ shelf life for up to two years, while ensuring their flavour is intact and preventing any fungal contamination.
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“The process takes 25 days,” Annie explains, “but the outcome is rewarding. The initial texture is somewhat rubbery, but after six months, it acquires a delightful, melt-in-the-mouth softness.”
Annie also excels in the art of meat preservation, particularly preparing idiyirachi which involves drying buffalo meat, by tenderly enveloping it with the ascending wisps of smoke from an aduppu, the traditional Kerala wood stove. This timeless process ensures the meat remains edible for a long time, depending on how well it has dried.
“The key to the effectiveness of these techniques rests in their meticulous adherence,” Annie elaborates, “This demands a blend of discipline and patience. Ammachis (grandmothers) would safeguard pickles and preserves in locations inaccessible to children. They would expertly seal jar openings to prevent the ingress of air, and deter any hasty attempts to introduce a wet spoon, to protect these culinary treasures.”
Annie excels in food preservation methods, particularly in preparing meat dishes like idiyirachi. (Supplied)
Annie laments the modern tendency to disregard the plentiful locally grown produce in their region.
“Let’s take the chundanga (Turkey berry), for example. It is a green berry that strengthens bones and the immune system,” Annie emphasises.
“It grows abundantly in the Wayanad region. Sadly, it’s often ignored by locals, leading these medicinal treasures to wither and die along roadways. But I make sure to either pickle them or make kondattam (sun-dried fryums) out of them.”
The same sentiment applies to the overlooked jackfruit. Annie notes that people often allow them to become overly ripe and subsequently discard them.
Not only does Annie advocate for the use of local produce, but she also takes great care to avoid artificial preservatives in her cooking.
“Many viewers reach out to me, placing orders for the unique preparations I showcase on YouTube. Some are taken aback when they learn that my products are priced slightly on the higher end,” Annie points out.
Chakka varatti, a sweet preserve created by cooking ripe jackfruit pulp with jaggery until it congeals, stands among her most sought-after items, priced at ₹1,100 per kg.
There is also high demand for manga thera (₹2,000 per kg), beef pickle (₹1,400 per kg), dried shark pickle (₹1,500 per kg), and idiyirachi (₹2,500 per kg).
They command a higher price due to the premium quality of ingredients used and intricate techniques involved in their production.
“I use cold-pressed oils in all my preserves. I do not compromise on any aspect of production,” she explains.
Annie’s commitment to authenticity also extends to the construction of a mud-and-bamboo hut from scratch.
“It is a project my father and I undertook two years ago. While we did collaborate with construction workers, we did not enlist an architect’s help. Inside, there are hand-crafted appliances including a rocket aduppu, arakka podi aduppu, mud oven, beer-bottle oven, and a unique fridge. This zero-energy cooling chamber operates without electricity,” she explains.
Annie’s rocket aduppu is an efficient cooking device that uses a specific design to burn wood with minimal smoke and maximum heat. It is made of mud, leaves of the Persea macrantha and hay.
Her arakka podi aduppu follows a similar design, but uses arakka podi (wood powder) instead of wood. Additionally, Annie uses bamboo cookware and utensils made of bamboo to up the ante.
Despite her passion for preserving tradition and promoting natural products, Annie faces challenges in her mission. Local support for her endeavours is limited.
“In my locality, people tease me, asking if I’m selling gold instead of food. They quip that they can purchase medicines for a fraction of the cost,” she remarks.
However, these negative comments do not shake Annie. She is determined to do what she loves. “My customers come from across India, from Kashmir to Kanyakumari. They provide me with positive feedback. I get repeat orders too,” Annie shares.
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As Annie prepares to embark on further culinary adventures, her greatest aspiration remains to persist in her exceptional forte — safeguarding the past for the sake of the future.
“In this fast-paced world, we must not forget the valuable lessons passed down by our ancestors,” Annie says with a smile.
“Preserving tradition is not just about food; it’s about preserving our heritage and embracing a simpler, healthier way of life,” she says, about the food preservation methods she has mastered.
To follow Annie and her inimitable journey, visit Instagram @leafykerala
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