Demand from epicurious millennials has brought cauldrons of meat in military hotels to many upmarket microbreweries of Bengaluru.
Complex, nuanced and elaborate to prepare, the meaty dishes of military canteens, Naidu messes, Gowdru hotels and naati joints are Bengaluru's culinary pride. (Supplied)
With the mild woody smell of palm leaves intermingled with robust spices and the aroma of meat, it is difficult to focus on anything else but donne biryani once it is on the table. On the side, the glistening liver chunks in a greenish gravy and the rustic mutton pepper fry fight for your attention.
Complex, nuanced, and elaborate to prepare, these meaty dishes of military canteens, Naidu messes, Gowdru hotels, and naati joints are Bengaluru’s culinary pride.
What exactly is military hotel food?
While no expert can corroborate the origin, it has been an integral part of Bengaluru’s foodscape and enjoys a rather cult status.. (Supplied)
There are many versions about the origin of the term “military canteen”. One of them is to cater to the meat needs of British soldiers when they wanted a change from eating in their mess.
Another theory points towards the Marathas, who were stationed in Karnataka in the 1600s and brought their traditional fiercely spicy meat cuisine with them.
While no expert can corroborate the origin, it has been an integral part of Bengaluru’s foodscape and enjoys a rather cult status.
Simply put, military canteen food is chicken and mutton (sometimes quail too) cooked in naati (local) style, served at affordable rates. Some dishes are inspired by Gowdru cuisine (food of the Gowda community), while others have Maharashtrian kitchen influences.
The jagged, original, and no-fuss establishments called Gowdru hotels, Naidu messes, and military canteens are typically located in the busy bylanes of petes — commercial areas with many traders, merchants, and labourers.
Demand from epicurious millennials has brought cauldrons of meat and short grain rice simmering over charcoal to many upmarket microbreweries like Byg Brewski and tasting rooms like Bengaluru Oota Company too.
Steven Thirumalai and Anil Kumar of the popular Malgudi Mylari Mane in the Koramangala neighbourhood of Bengaluru are bringing to fore another type of local food — homestyle Karnataka non-vegetarian fare.
The menu at Malgudi Mylari Mane. (Supplied)
“Our native cuisine was dying for an identity. Shivamogga is the gateway to Malnad. While our biryani/pulao is inspired by the Malnad region, our curries take from the Kaveri basin region (Hassan-Mandya-Mysuru belt). Our food is similar to military canteen food or Gowdru cuisine with minor differences in technique,” they share.
With their swanky set-up in the start-up neighbourhood, they pull crowds that would not be exposed to these meaty delights otherwise.
Quick service restaurant (QSR) chains with centralised kitchens also dish out these scrumptious delights. Ravindra MK, co-founder of B-Hive & Stone Stories explains, “We have got local food to a high-street concept. Located inside a co-working space which sees migrant population and expats is an advantage because people can try such food in a hygienic manner, in formats they are used to. Chicken kolar and Chicken 65 made in naati style are some of our fast-running items on the menu.”
Pick between experiencing the real deal by elbowing your way at 6:30 am for a biryani breakfast or queuing up for hours for lunch at the likes of Shivaji Military Hotel and Ranganna Military Hotel, or sample Bengaluru’s historical meaty delights in the comfort of your swanky watering holes and tasting tables.
Here is a lowdown of what to try and where.
At Raahi, mutton donne biryani is served with chicken kebabs and a boiled egg inspired by the regional style. (Supplied)
Chef Sagarika Joshi of Raahi points out that customers get nostalgic when they eat donne biryani in a restaurant setting like this.
“We serve mutton, chicken, and vegetarian renditions of donne biryani with deep fried chicken kebabs and a boiled egg inspired by the regional style. It is made using ambe mohar, a fragrant short-grained rice. Mutton halim samosa is also popular as a bar snack,” says Chef Joshi
Chef Shiva of Conrad Bengaluru tweaks it for his clientele. “We use jeera samba rice instead of raw rice used in local cuisine and tone down the spice level. The Gowda masala is as authentic as it gets. Spices like coriander seeds, cumin seeds, and black pepper simmered in ghee and coconut oil are a dominant flavour profile in these dishes,” he shares.
While Joshi gives the final “dum” in a wood-fired oven, Shiva cooks the biryani in a tandoor. At original joints like Shivaji Military Hotel, it is cooked over charcoal.
Where: Shivaji Military Hotel in Banashankari, Ranganna Military Hotel in Jayanagar, Caraway Kitchen, The Bengaluru Oota Company, Raahi
The mudde and saaru at Conrad. (Supplied)
Chef Sandeep of Byg Brewski emphasises sourcing naati chicken for the saaru which is a thin, watery gravy.
“We also have liver fry in coriander masala, which is a staple at all military hotels. Another speciality at Byg Brewsky is the teetar (Quail) roast which is borrowed from the tribal style of preparation of using only basic green chilli, salt and pepper, roasted over charcoal.”
Where: S G Rao’s Military Hotel, Gowdru Hotel in Indiranagar, Rajanna Military Hotel in Vijaynagar, Byg Brewski in Hennur and Sarjapur, Caraway Kitchen
Mutton pepper fry at Byg Brewsky. (Supplied)
Chef Sandeep of Byg Brewski believes it’s the Bannur lamb that makes all the difference when it comes to chops. He says, “It’s got more fat and a distinctive flavour. Though expensive, Bannur meat is more tender too.”
Where: Ranganna Military Hotel in Jayanagar, Bengaluru Oota Company, Byg Brewski
In the spirit of enjoying Bengaluru’s favourite meaty dishes at the comfort of home, Chef Priyatosh Ghosh, StoneStreet, shares his recipe for chicken kolar naati style.
Chicken Kolar. (Supplied)
Ingredients:
Maida: 40 g
Corn flour: 15 g
Kashmiri chili powder: 2 g
Coriander powder: 3 g
Cumin powder: 2 g
Ginger, chopped: 3 g
Garlic, chopped: 3 g
Eggs: 2
Chicken breast/chicken thighs: 200 g
Curry leaves: 1 g
Green chilli: 3 g
Oil to fry: 100 ml
Roasted masala papad: 1
Preparation Method:
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