Going beyond aromatic spices, rich nuts, and dry fruits, four home bakers share the unique stories behind the crafted blends they create.
Published Dec 22, 2023 | 12:00 PM ⚊ Updated Dec 22, 2023 | 5:17 PM
Chennai-based home bakers are infusing a piece of their heart into the mix. (Breakfast Matters/Bakespeare Tales)
What sets the quintessential Christmas plum cake apart? Is it the prolonged soaking of nuts and dry fruits, the meticulous blend of liquor, or perhaps the spice mix featuring warm winter spices like ginger, cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg? While a connoisseur will agree that all the essential ingredients contribute to the magic of a plum cake, these four home bakers in Chennai are adding their own special touch.
For some, it’s the infusion of love and tradition from a beloved family recipe. For others, it’s a dedication to the memory of a loved one. Another finds significance in the time spent with a family member in the kitchen, while yet another attributes it to sheer resilience.
Welcoming the season of joy, they open their kitchens and hearts to South First.
Muhilann Murugan and his boyfriend Gerardo from Mexico have embraced a Christmas tradition since 2020 – baking a delicious Tres leches cake using Gerardo’s mother’s special recipe.
“We usually don’t do plum cakes. However, earlier in February this year, when his godmother came over, the duo told me how they used to bake plum cakes together every year, as a tradition,” recalls the founder of Mugil’s Delight.
The plum cake mixture has undergone a month-long soaking process and is now ready for baking and delivery. (Mugil’s Delight)
Realising how important the custom was for Gerardo, Murugan didn’t pause. He immediately got the recipe from his godmother and began perfecting it.
“The recipe, I am told, is a traditional one. But some of the ingredients have to be altered. I’ve used Old Monk Rum and red wine, along with fruits like kiwi, dried plum, fig, and even seeds like pumpkin seeds and flaxseeds to give it a crunch,” he shares.
There were, naturally, some trials since this was his first attempt at making the ubiquitous Christmas treat. However, armed with a tried and tested recipe and a keen eye for perfection, he has mastered the art.
The plum cake mixture has undergone a month-long soaking process and is now ready for baking and delivery.
Customers can choose to order plum cakes individually or as part of three distinct combo packages. These combos feature an array of delightful treats, including tres leches, choux pastry, Adam’s apple, lemon tart, date brownie, horchata, pan español, and chocolate tart.
Every year, Murugan and Gerardo extend invitations to friends to celebrate Christmas.
When asked about his Christmas plans this year, Murugan enthusiastically shares. “Gerardo and I take charge of preparing a feast, featuring tres leches, lasagna, churros, and a medley of other delectable dishes including the Chicken 65! For our festive decor, we skip the conventional tree and instead opt for a charming nativity scene. We steer clear of plastic trees and embrace dolls from Triplicane’s Bommai Chatram, intricately crafted from papier-mâché or mud. My mother-in-law even sent a miniature nativity scene to add to our celebrations. As the clock strikes midnight, we gather around for a delightful dinner – that’s the essence of my Christmas,” he shares with evident joy.
The plum cakes and hampers can be ordered before 2 January 2024. Non-alcoholic options are available. The plum cakes are priced at ₹150 per 125 grams. Contact: +91 8220835682.
Around four decades ago, Smitha Kuttayya of Global Theeni embarked on the task of baking a plum cake for the first time, a special memory from her cousin’s wedding. Her father, went above and beyond to support her culinary attempt.
Jamaican Plum Cake. (Bakespeare Tales)
“My father was incredibly indulgent; he went to great lengths to ensure I had what I needed. He bought me a cooking range! Concerned about me dealing with the flames, he took extra precautions by taping up the burners and allowing me to use only the oven. That’s how protective and supportive he was,” she fondly recalls.
Today, Kuttayya has become renowned for crafting the perfect Royal Plum Cake, a skill she has honed over the past 30 years. “My grandmother was a fabulous baker, and she passed down that passion to me. Plum cakes are something I’ve always enjoyed. During a student exchange in England, I expressed my fondness for plum cakes, and my hosts shared their family recipes. I refined those recipes for my clientele and created a unique blend,” she shares.
In memory of her father, who loved her plum cakes, Smitha starts soaking the ingredients on her father’s birthday on 24 August every year and begins baking the cakes on 24 November, marking his death anniversary. “It’s dedicated to dad, as he used to enjoy the cake so much. We are from Coorg. Though not traditionally made in Coorg, it’s something I do for the joy of it,” she shares.
Kuttayya uses organic whole wheat, a meticulously prepared in-house spice mix, and homemade candied orange peels, among other intriguing ingredients. Moreover, she takes special care to accommodate dietary preferences, catering to vegans, individuals with nut allergies, and those seeking gluten-free options.
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“I do not use store-bought tutti fruity or cherries. I also make the caramel myself!” she shares.
With about 300-400 kilos of cake swiftly flying off the shelves, she accepts orders as long as the cakes last. Despite the continuous hustle of delivering her delightful creations, Smitha finds baking during Christmas to be a lot of fun.
She listens to stories, plays music, or tunes into a podcast. “I have fun during the process!” she adds.
The plum cakes are priced at ₹2,500 per kilo and ₹1,300 for half a kilo. Vegan, gluten-free options available. Contact: 9444385425
Sisters Preya Mani and Susharitha Mohan of Breakfast Matters turn their ritual of baking plum cakes into a delightful occasion that begins with a good cup of coffee.
Preya Mani and Susharitha Mohan. (Supplied)
The process unfurls in the calmness of the morning, gradually transitioning into the hustle and bustle of Christmas preparations. Despite the chaos, it’s a time the duo cherishes, filled with enjoyable moments together.
“We engage in a lot of conversations and family talks while baking the plum cake. Susharitha is a mother of two and has other responsibilities too, so we catch up on that while whipping up the cake!” shares Preya.
This year, their plum cake offering includes a whole wheat Christmas plum cake with brandy-soaked and non-alcoholic options. “Our mix is soaked for a minimum of 10 months, using mother liquor from the previous soaking, ensuring a strong flavour. The recent ones soak for at least three months,” she reveals.
The sisters enjoy experimenting with the nuts added to the batch and spice mixtures, often creating their own concoctions instead of opting for a ready-made mix.
“We make almond flour plum cakes and use homemade candied orange peels. The use of low GI sugar makes our cakes suitable for those looking for a diabetic-friendly option, promoting mindful indulgence during the holiday season,” notes Mani.
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Having attended an Anglo-Indian convent, growing up in Chennai’s St Thomas Mount, and being part of a secular family have always made Christmas special for the sisters.
“We draw a lot of inspiration for our Christmas plum cake from the cakes we enjoyed during our childhood. Our neighbours and the mothers of our classmates would always pack slices of the decadent cakes for us to relish. Traditional homemade cakes differ from store-bought ones. They possess unique characteristics. Our cakes too focus on achieving the right balance of flavours, steering clear of overpowering sweetness and synthetic elements,” she explains.
Orders can be placed until 22 December for delivery. The plum cakes start from ₹550 onwards for 250 grams, offering options for 1/2 kg and 1 kg (Prices will vary). Contact: +91 917612855
While others have drawn strength from love, memories, and companionship, Aarthi Santhanam of Bakespeare Tales discovered resilience within herself.
Despite the damage caused by the recent Chennai rains and floods to her workspace, Santhanam found the inner strength to rebound and ensure that her orders were delivered on time.
Aarthi found the inner strength to rebound and ensure that her orders were delivered on time. (Supplied)
“Although I managed to move certain things to high ground, the unexpected nature of the flooding damaged a lot of packaging material, and even a fridge of mine, among other things,” she shares.
The busiest period of the year for home bakers in the city coincided with this setback.
“Numerous customers eagerly await this time of the year to place their plum cake orders. Therefore, my initial focus was on restoring my kitchen,” she shares.
In Santhanam’s kitchen, her signature Jamaican plum cakes are a year-round speciality. However, the process of soaking the ingredients starts a year ahead. “I add at least 10-12 varieties of dry fruits and nuts, chopping them into tiny pieces, adding ginger, cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg,” she shares.
To have a good, rich, flavorful plum cake, the trick is to ensure that they soak in high-quality rum with all the spices.
“When they soak in the spices, you don’t have to add extra spices when you bake. Understanding the balance is important; adding too much spice later can be a mistake,” she explains.
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The more the mix ages, the more intense the flavour becomes. “This is why I keep adding to the blend every year, and it integrates with the existing blend,” she shares.
The plum cake gets its kick from Black Jack or the burnt sugar addition, which heightens the flavour and gives a richer feel. “It’s a very Caribbean way of doing it and is said to have originated in Jamaica. Thus the name!” she shares.
When asked about her kitchen this Christmas, she paints a cosy picture. “The kitchen emanates an indescribable aroma — warm and fuzzy, infused with delightful spices. It’s Margazhi, the Chennai chilliness seamlessly blends with this comforting aroma. Despite the challenges, it makes you feel like everything will be alright,” she expresses, leaving us with a year-end embrace of warmth and hope.
Plum cakes can be ordered until 22 December for Sunday deliveries. They are priced at ₹1,800 for 800 grams and ₹875 for 400 grams, respectively. It can be customised to smaller quantities (for bulk orders) if requested. Contact: 9344268744.
