Culture in a time capsule: All you need to know about the evolving spirit of Chennai’s annual, 100-year-old Margazhi festival

Performing artists, rasikas, and other stakeholders share what makes Margazhi special and how it has evolved into a people-driven movement

ByVaishali Vijaykumar

Published Dec 18, 2023 | 11:56 AMUpdatedDec 18, 2023 | 10:00 PM

From being a culture-focussed initiative, the annual Margazhi festival has evolved into a vibrant movement propelled by the community and its people.

To Tamilians and the Tamil diaspora, Margazhi holds the distinction of being the ninth month in the calendar. Yet, for Chennai, it isn’t just a time marker, it’s an emotion that pulsates through the city’s heart. Called the Mecca of Carnatic Music, Chennai attracts artistes and enthusiasts from every corner of the world to revel in a month-long celebration of music, dance, and drama from mid-December to mid-January.

From being a culture-focussed initiative, the annual Margazhi festival has evolved into a vibrant movement propelled by the community and its people, showcasing the enduring strength of collective passion.

Even in the face of Cyclone Michaung, the spirit of Margazhi remains undaunted, continuing to thrive with unwavering intensity this year.

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Stories steeped in sentiments

In the exploration of this festival steeped in tradition, one may wonder about its origins. Historian TK Krishnakumar enlightens us, sharing that Margazhi has been a cherished tradition for the past 1,300 years.

“Lord Krishna, as mentioned in the Bhagavad Gita, identifies Margazhi as one of his manifestations, affirming, ‘In the 12 months, I’m Margazhi.’ Derived from the star Mrigashirsha, this month is considered an auspicious time for religious observances,” he explains.

 

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Margazhi’s religious significance dates back to the 5th to 8th century in ancient Tamil Nadu.

“Nayanmars revered Lord Shiva, Azhwars worshipped Lord Vishnu, both honoured Margazhi. Tiruvempavai, part of Thiruvasagam by Nayanar Manickavacakar, comprises 20 devotional poems recited in Margazhi’s early morning for Lord Shiva’s blessings, known as paavai nombu. Similarly, Thiruppavai consisting of 30 songs, were written by Andal, and they are dedicated to Lord Vishnu,” he elaborates.

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The origins

However, the tradition of incorporating the festival aspect into this month and formally organising it can be linked to the inception of the Madras Music Academy. The historian shares that in 1927, freedom fighter and Congress leader S Satyamurti envisioned aligning a music conference with the Congress party’s session, leading to the establishment of this cultural celebration.

“The inception of the Madras Music Academy dates back to 1928. The commencement of the annual concert in 1929 marked the beginning of a significant journey,” he notes.

As Tamil did not find a place in music concerts, there was a need for certain leaders to start Tamil Isai Sangam as a movement.

“Since the 1970s, it has seamlessly integrated into Chennai’s cultural fabric, and it has grown beyond belief and made a mark on the global map,” he adds.

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Art and the artistes

For every participant in the festive panorama, the season evokes a unique sentiment.

For performing artistes such as G Ravi Kiran, it becomes a wellspring of inspiration, providing musical material to delve into and deeply engage with their craft.

“As the musical journey unfolds, artistes experience a heightened absorption of music. Learning and practice shape our perspective, and observing performances by peers and seasoned musicians can be truly enlightening,” notes the Carnatic vocalist, set to grace the stage in 12 concerts this season.

In addition to musical performances, there are new productions, thought-provoking discussions and enriching lecture demonstrations to involve the younger and older generation alike, he emphasises.

“As artistes, adapting to the flow is crucial, and we cannot solely depend on our predefined schedules. I consistently make an extra effort to explore the diverse offerings and avoid limiting myself,” he mentions.

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A muse beyond the stage

Dancer and architect Avanti Natarajan concurs. “Margazhi serves as a muse for the artworks I share with my social media followers and fellow creators. Elements drawn from Tiruppavai find expression on my canvas. These 30 days provide an ideal window to nurture and replenish creative energy while cultivating new habits. Is there a more uplifting companion and solace than art?” she offers.

 

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As a tribute to the unsung heroes and folk artistes of Tamil ethos, Natarajan’s multidisciplinary creative company The Art Brew Co has launched SOL 2024.

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Divya Vigneshwaran, the founder of Hastha, a brand specialising in block-printed apparel and umbrellas, uses her creations to generate funds for Chennai as various parts of the city recovers from the impact of Cyclone Michaung.

 

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“It’s a season for good deeds. We are dedicating 20% of the sales from our Margazhi limited edition dance practice saris to organisations that are making a positive impact on the lives of animals throughout the city,” she asserts.

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Every stakeholder matters

Beyond fostering talents, this period remains crucial for the often-overlooked heroes who go above and beyond to ensure the seamless operation of events.

“Costume designers, makeup artistes, tailoring units, back-stage technicians, caterers, hospitality, tourism operators…multiple stakeholders are involved in the making of Margazhi the festival it is. They have stood the test of time and count on the season for opportunities. The show must go on at least for them,” urges Mythili Baskaran, an avid sabha hopper.

For technicians such as Ayappan Arumugam, it serves as a vital supplementary source of income, especially when weddings and other functions take a backseat. With over 15 years of experience in recording and documenting dance performances, he plays a crucial role in the industry.

“From VHS recording to DVDs, I’ve witnessed the evolution of technology firsthand. Handling tasks such as lighting, editing, photography, and sound, capturing a dance performance is both unique and challenging. Executing such a monumental task is not everyone’s forte, and we play a crucial role in building a repository of valuable content,” he expresses with evident pride.

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Catering to the modern palate

For RK Venkatesan, who oversees another key facet of the festival — food — his sentiments align. The owner of Sastha Catering Services Porur is currently occupied catering to clients at Mylapore Fine Arts. With over seven years of experience in the business, he has continually innovated to maintain relevance in an industry marked by competition among seasoned professionals.

“In the past, sabha canteens had limited options, mainly vadai and bonda. If you take a look at the current menu, you’d be surprised. From strawberry kesari to guava pachadi, we introduce new delicacies every year. After all, isn’t food the primary factor that connects us all?” he points out.

 

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While food delivery to your doorstep is convenient, there’s a unique charm in standing in a meandering queue, eagerly awaiting your token number to be called out.

“The New Year elai sapadu is renowned for its elaborate offerings, so we meticulously plan for it. Our digital menu is already making waves on social media. Adaptation is key, and we keep evolving,” affirms Venkatesan, who has organised an ammini kozhukattai (steamed and sauteed rice dumplings) counter and other live stations for this year.

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Accommodating festive spirit

With the influx of the diaspora and international visitors to the city, to attend the Margazhi concerts, hotels are bustling with activity.

 

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“The success of the festival is partially defined by the turnover of the foreigners. Otherwise, one would jokingly hear ‘Indha season kala kattala pola?’ (this season does not seem to have picked up pace),” explains Ravi Kiran.

Despite the emergence of newer options, Hotel Maris, established in 1975, maintains its coveted position as a haven.

“Similar to other hotels, we boast a devoted clientele that exclusively chooses us during the festival. Situated amidst all the sabhas, our elai sapadu served on banana leaves is highly regarded. People place their trust in us,” states Vijay Venkatesh, the general manager of Hotel Maris. There’s also an open-to-all kutcheri organised by the hotel around Christmas.

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For the love of the festival

Setting aside the commercial aspects, there’s an authentic sense of belonging that resonates with everyone. Natarajan, mother of an 8-year-old, sees this as the perfect time to introduce children to our culture through performances.

“It’s crucial for the younger generation to actively participate and uphold the legacy,” she says.

Dedicated art enthusiasts and entrepreneurs are ensuring that accurate information reaches the audience to maximise their delight of the festival.

 

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Aalaap, an arts consulting and management firm based in Chennai, consistently prioritises the best interests of both artistes and audiences.

Aligned with its brand ethos, ‘Because the Arts is an Experience and Every Experience Matters,’ the organisation has been thoughtfully curating dance content since its establishment in 2012.

Their diverse page features a series spotlighting unsung heroes, one-on-one artiste conversations, curated festivals like The Diaspora Dance Festival uniting global dancers under one virtual roof.

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When scheduling is the key

For the fourth consecutive year, Shreya Nagarajan Singh, the founder of SNS Arts Development Consultancy, has curated and released an e-guide featuring a comprehensive list of concerts taking place throughout the season.

This is a 248-page document containing a comprehensive event listing the December Music and Dance season with festival schedule links, ticketing info and Google Maps locations.

“We have also compiled a list of sabha canteens and other key events/festivals in the city. We have a daily schedule of all key events from 1 December, 2023 to 2 February, 2024,” shares Singh.

Apart from the guide, the team is inviting rasikas to join its WhatsApp community that offers daily recommendations of concerts and events.

“It can overwhelm people. We do it to give back something useful to the city we love,” she notes.

By the people, for the people

The spirit of unity permeates every nook and cranny of the city, particularly the Mada streets of Mylapore. Here, families engage in various kolam contests, activities, and games. The entire mood creates a visual spectacle that captivates both locals and foreigners alike.

“The Mada street in Mylapore turns into a colourful carpet with kolams adorning every threshold. There are many photo walks and heritage walks for locals and foreigners to promote local tourism. Storytelling sessions on and off social media are my favourite,” says Baskaran.

Singh notes that there’s plenty in store to be looked into to ensure Margazhi is on par with global festivals.

“The government could contribute to enhancing the festival’s impact, boosting the economy and encouraging tourism. There is ample room to infuse professionalism into the sector, ensuring that all talents receive due recognition. Implementing a common ticketing system could be beneficial. We still have a considerable distance to cover to align with global festival standards,” she recommends.

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An inclusive spirit

The last few years has witnessed a spurt in unique experiences curated in newer spaces for a smaller audience. One such is by Rasoham – Chennai Cultural Arts Organisation called Kutty Kutchery Festival 2023. It will feature 10 performative conversations by extraordinary artistes, along with engaging conversations till 24 December, 2023.

Venues such as Medai – The Stage are striving to unite various art forms under one roof.

Gradually and consistently, the landscape is elevating other folk art expressions.

The Margazhiyil Makkal Isai initiative by Neelam Cultural Center has played a pivotal role in this shift. The imminent third edition of the festival is committed to offer equal representation to all art forms. The festival is set to take place across Kolar Gold Fields (KGF), Hosur and Chennai.

Margazhi stands out as a distinctive cultural and geographically specific phenomenon, singer Ravi Kiran underscores. Numerous attempts to replicate this concept in other cities have faltered for various reasons.

With this precious cultural gem in our grasp, there is a collective call to nurture and enhance it.