From the diaries of Mysureans: Moving memories and meals of Mysuru Dasara 

The procession of goddess Chamundeshwari devi on the golden howdah. (istock)

This year marks the 413th anniversary of Mysuru Dasara — a tradition that displays the rich heritage of Karnataka. It was following the decline of the Vijayanagara empire that Raja Wadiyar assumed kingship at Srirangapatana as the capital in 1610 CE and proclaimed that Navaratri be celebrated on a grand scale. The rest, as the cliche goes, is history.

Total recall

For 54-year-old Mysuru-based Vijay Kumar P, Rtd Director of Karnataka Milk Federation, Mysuru Dasara of his boyhood days meant a festival of bonding. “Every house would have the Gombe Habba. Our house used to have 7-8 rows of the Navaratri dolls. Every doll was different. We would set up a zoo on a sand try. First, we would put ragi in it so that it grew into a lawn, and then we would use broomsticks to make cages. The dolls would be placed alongside to look like they were in a zoo,” he recalls.

But beyond family, it was community gatherings and joint celebrations that Kumar cherished. Every evening, during this season, his family and he would gather at the Palace grounds to watch it light up in its full glory, and participate in the cultural programmes. On the 10th day, of Vijayadashami, the crowd would assemble to watch the grand procession. It was not modern and didn’t have tableaux like we do now, he shares. Instead, folk artistes and elephants took centre stage.

The Jumbo Savari is one of the highlights of Mysuru Dasara. (Supplied)

“The procession would end with the seating of the Maharaja on the golden howdah, marking the conclusion of the festivities. However, they changed this tradition (after the abolition of the Privy Purse in 1971) by placing the idol of goddess Chamundeshwari on the golden howdah,” he narrates.

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Of pictures and procession

It is the extravaganza of this procession that charms Dr Nagesh M, Assistant Professor, Department of Social Work, Central Tribal University of Andhra Pradesh, Vizianagaram, Andhra Pradesh, too. A resident of Mysuru, Nagesh remembers a childhood of Dasara festivities that included one month of school holidays. “Fifteen years back, when I used to see the idol of goddess Chamundeshwari being carried in the golden howdah, I would draw pictures of what I saw so that I keep them as memories.”

The procession which commences at the Palace, ends at the site of the Banni tree, now called Bannimantap. “My parents would take us to Bannimantap to watch the procession reach there by 5 pm. Elephants and Jumbo Savari are an integral part of Mysuru Dasara, and seeing them walk around is special for Mysureans,” he shares.

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Arrival of calm and togetherness

The arrival of Dasara simply meant a time for togetherness for Sapna MS, Chairperson and Professor, Department of Journalism, University of Mysore. Her extended family from Haasan, Mangaluru and Gundulpet would stay over at her place for 10 days. “Lighting back then was minimal. For us, it was all about the Jumbo Savari and the golden howdah,” she remembers.

Akshata J vouches to get a glimpse of the Darbar Hall inside the palace. (Supplied)

Sapna’s father, she says, was the lone breadwinner, but that didn’t come in the way of creating memories in the limited ways they could. Going to the exhibition, sitting on the giant wheel and other rides were the highlights of her Dasara. “My dad used to give us ₹100 to be shared between the four of us to buy whatever we wanted. It was a big deal then,” she adds.

For 28-year-old journalist Akshata J, Dasara is a calming time of the year. Recounting her memories, she shares, “I was a toddler when I first witnessed the Jumbo Savari. Years later, when I went with my university friends, it rained heavily during the procession. Watching the golden howdah at that moment was an enthralling experience.

Akshata also insists on getting a glimpse of the Darbar Hall inside the palace. The state anthem that was played before India’s Independence is played even today, she adds. Calling Dasara a package, she insists that every visitor must participate in Yuva Dasara, the flower show, and Yuva Sambrama.

“Every Mysurean’s calendar is booked these ten days,” she enthuses.

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Ga-ga over Gombe Habba 

While elephants were the favourite part of the festival for Nagesh, Akshata was attracted to tonga rides. She was five years old when she had her first tonga ride, and ever since it’s been part of her agenda, every Dasara.

Gombe Habba is an integral part of almost every home celebrating Dasara in Karnataka. (Supplied)

“My family also celebrates Dasara by keeping Gombe Habba. We have the king and queen dolls. It is presented to the groom’s family from the bride’s family in the southern part of Karnataka. Every household has a Pattada Gombe, which is the lead pair or main character of the theme. Every day there is a special pooja for the dolls,” she adds.

Kumar chimes in recalling the details of the Pattada Gombe. “They were worshipped during the morning hours. There used to be gunshots from the palace and then the prayer would begin in every house,” he reminisces.

For retired librarian Sheela Puttaswamy, Mysuru and Dasara go hand-in-hand. Calling Dasara the pride of Mysuru, she shares, “we used to arrange the dolls, invite relatives and friends to celebrate the festival. Every house used to be decorated differently, and watching these doll decorations filled us with curiosity. The dolls in our house were documented and screened in many theatres before the start of movies. Every day, special dishes were prepared.”

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The city preps

Not just the royal family, and the people of Mysuru, but the civic body too gears up a month before Dasara, shares Sapna. The administrative bodies chalk out traffic diversion plans, cops prepare to ensure law and order is maintained amid the large moving crowds, and the city officials draw out a list of activities to be conducted across the city, she informs.

Preparing kodubale, kopri mittai and ravai undai at home is a ritual that Prof Sapna continues, to keep the family’s legacy alive. (Supplied)

“That itself sets the mood for hoteliers and local vendors, who stock up on sweets and savouries that are local Mysuruean,” adds Sapna.

But behind all the lights, colours and action, there’s also a crowd, says 46-year-old Bengaluru resident Madhu Krishna, who grew up in Mysuru. It was the teeming crowd that deterred her from attending the procession during her childhood. She preferred cheering for it by watching it on the television. And she holds no regrets. But Krishna now sees the effort that goes into creating and upholding the tradition of Dasara in her hometown.

“Last year, I was in Mysuru during Dasara, and I saw the whole city lit up beautifully. I couldn’t help but notice and appreciate the hard work that must have gone into putting up such a show,” she notes.

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Finding our identity in food 

Festivals also come with a promise of a sense of belonging and a reconnection with our roots and identity. Festive delicacies speak of the flavours of the region which are crucial to the nativity of the cuisine.

Puliyogare is one of the delicacies prepared during Dasara. (istock)

This is the umbilical cord connection for Krishna, who fondly remembers her amma’s special preparations during Dasara. “On Mahanavami, amma used to prepare bele obbattu (dal) and a full festival meal with kosambaris, palyas, mosaru bajji, one puliyogare or some other rice item, rice, obbattu saaru, and payasam,” she details.

Akshata too finds comfort in her traditional home delicacy of ambode, her favourite snack during Dasara.

Meanwhile, Sapna’s family plans a month ahead. Preparing kodubale, kopri mittai and ravai undai at home is a ritual that she continues, to keep the family’s legacy alive.

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Are we losing the fervour?

Amid all the revelry, Sapna is aware that much has changed. Not just the lighting, but the mindset towards celebrating Dasara as a community festival is now “all about showing off” she worries.

“We are doing because others are also doing. Earlier we used to make an effort to decorate the dolls etc. But now, with technology, we have moved to readymade décor solutions. We used to even hire a photographer and videographer to record all the programmes and activities,” she shares, adding how the era of “instant” has dimmed the spirit of the festival. For youth like Akshata, however, Dasara is a font of hope.

And maybe that’s the hope we need to keep the ethos of our traditions and culture alive.

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