Starting from the 11th day in the month of Muharram, people, irrespective of their faith, take part in this festival of exchanging 'rotis' for good fortune.
Attendees of Rottela Panduga at the Bara Shaheed Dargah. (Umar Ahmed)
The Bara Shaheed Dargah, located in Nellore, Andhra Pradesh, on the shores of Swarnala Cheruvu (Golden Lake) in the heart of the city, is host to a unique and syncretic annual festival that starts from the 11th day in the month of Muharram.
Muharram marks the beginning of the Islamic New Year. People across India, predominantly from the southern states — and at times from other countries — visit this dargah and take part in the Urs (ritual).
Called “Rotiyon ki Eid” aka “Rottela Panduga” (Festival of Flat Breads), it is held around the shrine on the banks of the Swarnala Cheruvu to commemorate the death of 12 warriors who are buried there.
The site for the ‘job rotis’ to be exchanged. (Umer Ahmed)
The complex of the tomb also consists of a masjid, a site for biannual Eid prayers, a recreation park, and graves of all the warriors, alongside a government guest house.
The main activity that occurs on the eve of this event is an exchange of rotis between people. The exchange of flat bread, as an act of devotion, happens between a person who is on a thanksgiving visit after having their wishes fulfilled, and one who is currently seeking fulfilment of their wishes.
The former visit the shrine’s lake to wish for marriage, children, construction of a house, a decent job, or a promotion, and return the succeeding year after their wishes have been fulfilled.
They either leave the flat bread in the lake at allocated points — such as places earmarked for Health Roti, Job Roti, Marriage Roti — or directly exchange them with others now seeking fulfilment, after dipping it in the lake.
It is estimated that around 10 lakh people — a bulk of them women — arrive every year for the festival, that extends from three to five days.
Among them are dignitaries as well, who often present a chadar to the shrine. Interestingly, Chief Minister YS Jagan Mohan Reddy took part in this festival in 2016, when he was the Leader of Opposition.
While the reason behind the origin of the festival is mostly undisputed, there are versions to the history behind the construction of the mausoleum and the martyrdom of the warriors.
One legend speaks of the arrival of Islamic preachers from Saudi about 1,200 years ago, which created a feud with locals as they opposed their activities. It eventually led to the killing of the visiting preachers.
A long line to get a glimpse of the mausoleum. (Umar Ahmed)
Another version speaks of the martyrdom of 12 soldiers, including their Turkish commander Zulfikar Baig, who were fighting the British under the leadership of Hyder Ali of Mysore.
A third suggests soldiers fighting under the Arcot Nawabs of Tamil Nadu, while yet another speaks of a battle between the Wallajah Nawabs of Tamil Nadu and Adil Shahis of Bijapur.
A nugget common to all versions is that 12 martyrs were beheaded and the headless bodies were put to rest in the shrine. The shrine’s name, Bara Shaheed, is an exact translation of “12 martyrs” in Urdu.
As to the festival’s unique theme, most are in agreement.
Legend has it that the wife of an Arcot Nawab fell ill and none of his physicians could heal her. Losing hope, the Nawab announced a reward to anybody who could cure her.
Nearby, a laundress and her husband were resting after finishing their duties when a martyr appeared in their dream and suggested that the king rub mud — picked up from the land on which the shrine stood— on the forehead of his ailing wife and she would be cured.
The Nawab did just that, and his wife recovered. As an act of gratitude, he visited the shrine, offered prayers, and fed the poor by distributing flat breads. People believe that’s how the ritual came into existence and still stays relevant all these years later.
Vendors benefit from the festival too. (Umar Ahmed)
“I first visited here (the dargah) because I wasn’t able to conceive a child. After the flat bread (roti) exchange, I was blessed with a child, and another child later. We visited once again regarding a business problem and that too was resolved. Since then, I’ve been regularly participating in this Urs for the last 20 years, exchanging rotis for the betterment of others who are in need,” Bhubaneshwari from Tirupati tells South First.
Santoshi from Vellore says, “I have been participating in this ritual for the last 10 years and I hope this is my final visit seeking a roti for good health. I initially came for a housing need, which was satisfied, and have been exchanging rotis for multiple reasons, including my studies.”
And it’s not just those with wishes who benefit from the event.
“I always await this ritual because of its huge population influx that boosts my daily sales. We’re a fraternity of three and have been selling various eatables for the last 10 years,” says a hawker who sells junnu — a sweet said to be made from a cow’s colostrum milk.
“I’m originally from Kanpur and was involved in selling ice gola for the last eight years. Though I don’t participate in the ritual, my friends and I have been consistently selling our products here,” says another vendor Vishal.
Imam of the masjid, Syed Zaib Ashrafi. (Umar Ahmed)
“The dargah witnesses a heavy surge of crowds who arrive to witness the ‘Gandha Mahotsavam’, which is yet another significant event in the Rottela Panduga festival every year,” the Imam of the masjid, Syed Zaib Ashrafi, told South First.
“People, irrespective of their faith, take part and none of them leaves empty-handed,” Ashrafi adds.
“The main reason behind this gigantic, crowd-pulling event is the miracles everybody experiences after they have conveyed their wishes to the 12 great Turkish martyrs,” he say.
At a time hatred is on the rise and trust between communities is on the wane, it is heartening to witness such syncretism at a Muslim shrine that is visited by thousands of devotees cutting across religions — all arriving in the hope that their troubles and worries will soon be a thing of the past.
May 18, 2024
May 18, 2024
May 18, 2024
May 17, 2024
May 16, 2024
May 15, 2024
