At the cusp of Independence, India was still in the initial stages of developing its industrial base. Among many other areas, the leather industry was one sector whose potential was yet to be realised.
India becoming a pioneer in producing finished leather products seemed to be a dream that was too far-fetched. Even in the 1960s, India remained just a source of raw hides and skins for other countries, and mostly specialised in semi-processed leathers. With a population of 340 million at the time of Independence, the miniscule leather industry employed fewer than 25,000 people.
Gandhi on tanning
In 1934, Gandhi published an article on tanning, which aptly captures the essence of the problem of that era. As he writes, “… it is estimated that rupees nine crores worth of raw hide is annually exported from India and that much of it is returned to her in the shape of manufactured articles. This means not only a material, but also an intellectual, drain. We miss the training we should receive in tanning and preparing the innumerable articles of leather we need for daily use.”
Today, the leather industry is among the top 10 foreign exchange earners in India. Its exports are worth $6 billion. We have moved from a dismal stage of almost nil technical know-how in producing finished leather to becoming a country that accounts for 13% of the world’s total production today. The industry employs more than 4.5 million people, of which a large percentage are women.
The story of Yelavarthy Nayudamma
For an industry to grow in such vast proportions in a matter of six decades requires a clear-sighted vision. One of the key persons behind the transformation of the leather industry is Padmashri awardee Prof. Yelavarthy Nayudamma. We are celebrating his 100th birth anniversary this month.
Born in 1922 in Yelavarru village of Guntur district of Andhra Pradesh, Nayudamma was a multifaceted personality who held several key posts of national and international eminence during his lifetime — from being the chairman of the Committee on Science and Technology in Developing Countries (COSTED) to becoming the secretary in the Department of Space in the government. While he held diverse portfolios, he is particularly known for his immense contributions towards shaping the leather industry in India.
He graduated in industrial chemistry from Banaras Hindu University. After he worked with the Institute of Leather Technology, Madras (1943–45), he was sent by the government of Madras to pursue advanced training in leather technology in the UK (1946–47) and the US (1947–51).
After writing his dissertation under the tutelage of the prominent leather technologist Edwin R Theis of Lehigh University in the US, Prof Nayudamma joined the Central Leather Research Institute (CLRI) in 1951. Within a few years, he assumed the position of Director at CLRI (1958–1971), elevating the institution to new heights and helping it earn international appreciation.
Science for people
Nayudamma gave a different meaning to science and technology altogether. He questioned the esoteric nature of science that was limited to a few and was only being applied to mega, fancy projects. He believed this kind of application of science was not in the best interests of humanity.
Instead, he said that the fundamental goal of science and technology should be to make our societies more prosperous such that every person can use them to address their problems. He embodied the principle of ‘science for people’.
Nayudamma used tech to overcome cultural barriers
During the time of Independence, the leather market was beset by various cultural barriers, one of the key reasons why it was struggling to organise into an industry. The occupation of gathering hides and skins of deceased animals was frowned upon by society due to the unpleasant smell, and the nature of work was commonly perceived as difficult and exploitative.
Once Nayudamma was involved in the leather industry, he applied his same vision of ‘science for people’ to it. Along with his peers, he developed technologies that enabled the elimination of stench, which was a major contribution towards making the tanning profession an acceptable and valuable vocation in society. He shifted the focus of CLRI towards improving the skills of those engaged in this profession.
Among his many other contributions, three technologies particularly stand out as they helped leather manufacturing become a lucrative industry.
First, he contributed towards building a solid mechanism of tanning. He learned how various tanning materials can bind to skin proteins, which helped in the permanent preservation of raw hide to produce durable leather products.
Second, was the ‘shrinkage phenomenon’, another critical piece of research that showed how to maintain dimensional stability of skin and leather. Till date, many traders and users of leather products reap economic benefits because of this phenomenon.
Third, Nayudamma worked on combination tanning techniques that helped in manufacturing water-proof sole leather, which has yielded many commercially valuable products.
Inclusive development
Nayudamma harnessed the potential of science and technology to battle cultural stigmas, which in turn helped generate employment and further the economic growth of the country. He extensively promoted leather products, which significantly improved the incomes of tannery workers.
Moreover, under his leadership, Nayudamma steered the leather industry towards making it more inclusive and gender-neutral. He nudged industry players to employ more women and other weaker sections of society. Today, more than 30% of the total people employed in the leather industry are women.
Nayudamma also had a vital role to play in designing ingenious policy instruments. Based on his recommendation, the government banned the export of raw hides and skins, and imposed a 25% export duty on semi-finished leather goods. Such policies facilitated the rise of the leather industry in India and helped it emerge as a global player.
Way forward
The manufacturing industry in India is facing a tough time. Industrial output growth hit a four-month low in July this year. Despite all the buzz around the ‘Make in India’ initiative, the country’s manufacturing GVA saw a decline of 7.1 percent in 2021. As a share of GDP, the manufacturing sector’s contribution has stagnated between 16–18%, failing to meet the target of 25% by 2022.
As we celebrate his 100th birth anniversary, India should aspire to have more such Nayudammas in every sector for the country to become a manufacturing hub and thus fulfil the vision of Atmanirbhar Bharat.
(With inputs from Akshat Sogani, LAMP fellow)
(Lavu Sri Krishna Devarayalu is a YSRCP MP from Narasaraopet, Andhra Pradesh. These are the personal views of the author)
