A temple town with oodles of old-world charm, Melkote is home to several hidden gems and is arguably one of the state’s best-kept secrets.
Melkote is a treasury of unique and diverse attractions, encompassing history, culture, architecture, and religion. (Rashmi Gopal Rao/SouthFirst)
When discussing the most popular places to visit in Karnataka, Melkote (also spelt Melukote) doesn’t often come up in conversation. Situated around 140 km from Bengaluru, this holy town rests atop a rocky hillock named Yadavagiri, providing a commanding view over the Kaveri valley.
The transition in the landscape becomes evident as you approach Melkote. The straight roads gradually give way to gently winding paths and, as you ascend, you’ll feel a drop in temperature and a refreshing breeze.
As you draw nearer, the temple tower of the Yoga Narasimha temple, perched atop the hill, comes into view, signalling your arrival at Melkote.
Around 50 km from Mysuru, the cultural capital, Melkote is a treasury of unique and diverse attractions, encompassing history, culture, architecture, and religion.
Visiting this hamlet in the Pandavapura taluk of Karnataka feels like a journey through time, with its distinct vintage ambience.
Melkote, also known as Thirunarayanapuram, is often regarded as one of the holiest places in South India. While the Cheluvanarayana Swamy temple lies at the heart of the town, most visits commence with paying respects at the Yoga Narasimha Swamy temple atop the Yadavagiri hillock.
Accessed via around 500 steps, the temple dates back to the Hoysala period and commands reverence from devotees across regions.
According to legend, the seated idol of Lord Narasimha was installed by Bhakta Prahlada, son of Hiranyakashipu. As a result, this temple stands as one of the most sacred Narasimha temples and one of seven centres dedicated to Narasimha worship.
The temple, referenced in Vedic literature, holds a large drum said to be donated by Tipu Sultan. From its peak, you’ll be captivated by a panoramic bird’s eye view of the surroundings.
Yet, the heart of Melkote lies in the Cheluvanarayana Swamy temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, known as Thirunarayana or Cheluvaraya here.
Patronised by the Mysuru royal family, the Wodeyars, this temple boasts remarkable architecture adorned with pillared mandapams, ornate carvings, and intricate sculptures.
The annual ten-day Vairamudi Brahmotsava festival attracts multitudes of devotees. (Rashmi Gopal Rao/South First)
The annual ten-day Vairamudi Brahmotsava festival attracts multitudes of devotees who assemble to witness the deity adorned with its renowned collection of jewels, including the diamond-studded crown embedded with precious gems.
Remarkably, the eminent Vaishnava saint Sri Ramanujacharya resided here for over a decade in the 12th century, playing a pivotal role in recovering the Utsavamurthy, the procession idol of the Cheluvanarayana Swamy temple, during a time of loss.
Melkote is akin to an open-air museum, boasting sepia-toned buildings, pillared enclosures, ancient temple complexes, and more.
The hamlet features several Kalyanis or ancient tanks. Notably, Panchakalyani stands as the largest in the region, meriting mention in the ancient Hindu scripture Padma Purana. It’s accessible from all sides via a set of steps and offers a breathtaking sight.
The twin tanks, known as Akka Thange Kola, are also notable attractions. Akka means elder sister and thange means younger sister in Kannada, alluding to the belief that these tanks were built by a pair of sisters.
One tank holds clear water for drinking, while the other has muddy water for washing. These kalyanis ingeniously harnessed water through a gradient system.
Rayagopura, an incomplete structure consisting of pillars without enclosures, stands as another enigmatic town attraction. Often referred to as the Gopalaraya entrance, its origins and history remain shrouded in mystery.
A stroll along the town’s streets offers a unique charm. Courtyard houses featuring red oxide flooring, brick-tiled roofs, kolam-adorned doorways, and old-style doors and windows line the narrow avenues.
Given Sri Ramanujacharya’s decade-long residency in Melkote, the town is home to a sizable population of Mandyam Iyengars, who have settled here for centuries.
Consequently, it’s common to spot the sacred Vaishnava symbol, the Naamam or Thiruman, on doors, buildings, and even walls. Rows of unhurried row houses imbue the town with an enchanting ambience.
Melkote is also home to the esteemed Academy of Sanskrit Research, established in 1978 for Indian philosophy research. With its collection of books and palm-leaf manuscripts, the sprawling campus boasts lush greenery and panoramic vistas.
Notably, the town upholds a rich tradition of khadi weaving. The Janapada Seva Trust has been diligently working since the 1960s to infuse contemporary design into khadi, preserving this legacy.
For a souvenir, consider the signature Melkote dhoti, characterised by an off-white hue with a reddish-maroon border.
Sampling local cuisine is essential for immersing oneself in the spirit of any place and Melkote excels in this aspect.
Don’t miss out on the famed puliyogare (tamarind rice) and sakkare pongal (sweet pongal), both specialities of the Iyengars.
The town boasts savoury snacks like ‘chakli’, ‘thengolu’, and ‘murukku’. (Rashmi Gopal Rao/South First)
Moreover, the town boasts savoury snacks like chakli, thengolu, and murukku, crafted from rice flour, black gram flour, and more. To savour these delights, Subbana Mess stands as a renowned local eatery.
Subbanna Mess, a renowned eatery, offers complete vegetarian meals served on a banana leaf. With a history nearing a century, this establishment abstains from using onion and garlic in all its recipes. In addition to delectable savoury snacks, patrons can also purchase puliyogare gojju, a ready-made mix that can be combined with rice for a flavourful puliyogare experience anytime!
And so, in the quietude of Melkote, the journey transcends mere sightseeing.
It transforms into a reflection on heritage, a dance with time, and an invitation to immerse yourself in the opulence of South India’s cultural narrative.
When wanderlust beckons and the desire for an authentic and immersive journey arises, consider Melkote — an oasis of tranquility that offers a travel experience that is as enriching as it is unforgettable.
May 10, 2024
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