The Cooum River recorded the highest nonylphenol concentration in surface water – 70 µg/L – with the Adyar River close behind at 60 µg/L. The contamination is not just restricted to water. Sediment samples and effluent discharges from textile hubs show similar toxic signatures
Published May 23, 2025 | 9:00 AM ⚊ Updated May 23, 2025 | 9:00 AM
Cooum River
Synopsis: A new study by Toxics Link has found high levels of hormone-disrupting chemicals in Chennai’s Cooum and Adyar rivers, linked to toxic waste from the textile industry upriver. The chemicals – nonylphenol (NP) and its ethoxylates – are used in fabric processing and can harm both people and wildlife. Despite being banned or restricted in many countries, they remain largely unregulated in India.
Two of Chennai’s main rivers are contaminated with alarming levels of toxic industrial chemicals linked to hormone disruption, according to a new study by environmental group Toxics Link.
The study, Toxic Threads: Assessing Nonylphenol in Indian Textiles and the Environment, states that both rivers are heavily contaminated with nonylphenol (NP) and nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs) – industrial compounds known to interfere with hormones in humans and wildlife.
The Cooum River recorded the highest NP concentration in surface water – 70 µg/L – with the Adyar River close behind at 60 µg/L.
The contamination is not just restricted to water. Sediment samples and effluent discharges from textile hubs show similar toxic signatures, pointing squarely at textile industries as major culprits.
NP and NPEs are used extensively across industrial sectors – including detergents, cosmetics, leather, paper, paints, and agrochemicals – but the textile sector is particularly reliant on them.
These compounds serve critical roles in washing, scouring, dye levelling, lubrication, bleaching, and rinsing during fabric processing. Their amphiphilic properties make them highly effective surfactants.
However, once released into the environment, NPEs degrade into NP, a substance known for its persistence and bioaccumulative nature. This means that NP does not just disappear – it lingers in water bodies, sediments, aquatic life, and eventually, human bodies.
The Toxics Link study found NP not only in Chennai but also in surface waters of the Bandi River in Pali (Rajasthan), Buddha Nullah in Ludhiana (Punjab), and the Sabarmati River in Ahmedabad (Gujarat).
While the Cooum topped the list, the Buddha Nullah had the highest contamination in sediments, with NP levels reaching 460 µg/kg and NP mixed isomers hitting 1190 µg/kg. Effluent samples from nearby textile industries also contained NP, with concentrations of up to 10.1 µg/L.
NP and NPEs belong to a class of endocrine-disrupting compounds that mimic oestrogen – the primary female sex hormone. In both humans and animals, they interfere with hormone regulation, causing reproductive and developmental issues.
Studies have shown that even low-dose, long-term exposure to NP can lead to abnormalities in embryos and children, affect ovarian function, and reduce sperm count. Research has also linked NP exposure to cancers such as breast and prostate cancer.
A biomonitoring study in Italy even detected NP in human breast milk.
Despite their toxicity, NP and NPEs continue to be used widely in India. “NP is a known endocrine disruptor and its presence in environmental matrices and textile products is a serious public health concern,” said Satish Sinha, Associate Director at Toxics Link.
“There is a need to regulate this chemical in the country by setting standards for its use in effluents and water. Currently, there is only a restriction on its use in cosmetics.”
Out of 40 textile products purchased from major Indian cities and online platforms, 15 tested positive for NP, with concentrations ranging from 8.7 to 957 mg/kg. Shockingly, 13 of these 15 garments were manufactured in India.
Most of the contaminated items were innerwear – underwear and hosiery products for men, women, and children. These garments come in direct contact with sensitive areas of the body, increasing the risk of NP exposure through dermal absorption.
The highest recorded concentration, 957 mg/kg, was found in a piece of female hosiery innerwear.
The implications for children are even more concerning. Sixty percent of baby and children’s products tested in the study contained NPEs, with concentrations ranging from 8.7 to 764 mg/kg. Exposure during early developmental stages can have lifelong consequences.
Global bans, local apathy
Many countries have woken up to the dangers of NP. The European Union (EU) has heavily regulated NP and NPEs, replacing them with safer alternatives such as alcohol ethoxylates. Canada, Japan, and even the UK – way back in 1976 – have taken similar measures.
Yet, in India, there is little regulatory oversight. Textile manufacturing continues largely unchecked, with NP-laden effluents flowing directly into rivers that communities depend on for water, farming, and fishing.
The absence of stringent rules and the lack of awareness around these chemicals mean that both ecosystems and public health remain at high risk.
The Toxics Link study provides clear evidence that NP contamination is higher in downstream locations of rivers – right where textile clusters are concentrated. Upstream samples, in contrast, were often free from the chemical, strongly indicating point-source pollution.
For instance, in the Sabarmati River, NP was recorded at 7.9 µg/L in surface water at downstream points, while upstream levels were negligible. Sediment samples revealed 360 µg/kg of NP and 810 µg/kg of NP isomers. This pattern was consistent across all surveyed rivers.
The study also suggests that a significant issue is the discrepancy in business practices, since international companies that have banned NP from regulated markets continue to allow its usage in goods marketed and sold in India.
This underlines the need for strict regulatory measures to restrict NP in supply chains and exposes the flaws in voluntary promises by industry.
The absence of regulatory limits on NP in environmental matrices and the lack of national bans on its use in textiles highlight a critical policy gap that urgently needs to be addressed.
“Furthermore, the absence of stringent measures in India creates a potential discrepancy in trade practices. With other countries implementing regulations and restrictions, Indian textile products containing toxic chemicals may face barriers or trade limitations in the global market,” the study reads.
“This could hinder the competitiveness of the Indian textile industry and affect its reputation in terms of sustainability and responsible manufacturing practices. It is essential for India to recognise the concerns associated with these chemicals and prioritise their regulations and restrictions in various sectors, especially textiles.
“By aligning with international efforts and adopting strict measures, India can safeguard its population, promote sustainable manufacturing practices, and ensure compliance with global standards for chemical management.”
The report presents a sector-wise strategy to eliminate NP and promote safer alternatives:
(Edited by Dese Gowda)
