High salicylic acid exposure can cause salicylate toxicity, a potentially life-threatening condition. Early symptoms include nausea, vomiting, tinnitus, headache, dizziness, abdominal pain, sweating, and rapid or deep breathing
Published May 26, 2025 | 2:20 PM ⚊ Updated May 26, 2025 | 2:20 PM
Synopsis: Spain’s Mesoestetic brand faces regulatory action after its products exceeded India’s salicylic acid limits. The CDSCO has cancelled several product registrations. These items were imported by Tamil Nadu-based Spectra Medical India Pvt. Ltd., highlighting growing scrutiny amid the sector’s expansion
Driven by rising disposable incomes and a growing appetite for premium skincare, India’s cosmetics market is expanding rapidly. The high-end segment—largely dominated by international luxury brands—is gaining momentum, appealing to urban consumers with evolving beauty standards.
However, amid this surge, Spain-based skincare brand Mesoestetic has come under regulatory scrutiny in India.
The Central Drugs Standard Control Organisation (CDSCO) has cancelled the registration of several Mesoestetic products after they were found to contain salicylic acid concentrations well above the permissible limit set under Indian cosmetic regulations.
Mesoestetic products are imported into India by Tamil Nadu-based Spectra Medical India Pvt. Ltd.
According to an official order issued by Dr Rajeev Singh Raghuvanshi, the Drugs Controller General of India (DCGI), several Mesoestetic products were found to be in violation of Rule 39 of the Cosmetics Rules, 2020, which mandates compliance with safety and quality standards outlined in the Ninth Schedule. Under Indian regulations, salicylic acid is permitted at concentrations of up to 2 percent in general cosmetic products and 3 percent in rinse-off hair products.
However, the Central Drugs Standard Control Organisation (CDSCO) determined that multiple Mesoestetic products imported by Spectra Medical India Pvt. Ltd.—the brand’s official partner based in Tamil Nadu—contained salicylic acid in concentrations ranging from 7 percent to as high as 30 percent.
The affected products include:
These products were registered under certificate number RC/COS-003211, issued in July 2023 and valid until 31 May 2027. Following an application review and lab analysis, the CDSCO issued a show-cause notice to Spectra Medical India on 7 April 2025 for non-compliance.
In response, the importer acknowledged the findings and expressed willingness to surrender the affected products, according to the CDSCO.
“The registration certificate for the mentioned products is hereby cancelled from the date of this order,” the DCGI stated, noting that the cancellation applies to all products listed under serial numbers 7, 3, 5, 63, 64, 66, and 67 of the registration certificate.
Exposure to high concentrations of salicylic acid—whether acute or chronic—can lead to salicylate toxicity, a serious condition that may become life-threatening if left untreated.
Early symptoms of toxicity often include nausea, vomiting, ringing in the ears (tinnitus), headache, dizziness, abdominal pain, excessive sweating, and rapid or deep breathing (hyperventilation).
As the condition progresses, more severe symptoms can develop. These may include confusion, agitation, hallucinations, delirium, fever, dehydration, and a rapid heart rate (tachycardia). In severe cases, individuals may experience seizures, stupor, or coma.
Other serious complications can involve muscle breakdown (rhabdomyolysis), kidney failure, respiratory distress or failure, and the accumulation of fluid in the lungs (pulmonary edema). In extreme cases, brain swelling (cerebral edema), abnormal heart rhythms (arrhythmias), and dangerously low blood sugar levels (hypoglycemia), especially in children, can occur.
Prompt medical attention is crucial in cases of suspected salicylate toxicity to prevent long-term damage or fatal outcomes.
The Indian skincare market was valued at around USD 8.78 billion in 2024 and is expected to reach USD 17.69 billion by 2033, growing at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 8.43 percent.
Globally, the luxury skincare market was worth over USD 50 billion in 2023 and is projected to reach approximately USD 77 billion by 2032, at a CAGR of 4.9 percent. India is emerging as a key market within this global trend, with increasing demand for international premium brands.
The rise of e-commerce has also played a pivotal role, with online platforms like Nykaa and Tira accounting for 42 percent of skincare sales and offering a wide array of imported products. Social media and influencer marketing continue to be major discovery channels for consumers.
(Edited by Ananya Rao)
