Festivities galore as Bonalu takes over the City of Pearls

The enthusiasm and energy of the occasion is described locally as ‘dhum-dham’ – a term that defies translation into English.

Published Jul 30, 2024 | 2:00 PMUpdated Jul 30, 2024 | 2:00 PM

Festivities galore as Bonalu takes over the City of Pearls

July 2024 has brought a jubilant air across Hyderabad, despite heavy downpours. Scores of people have been flocking to various temples in the city as the fervour of Bonalu takes hold. A month-long Hindu festival in the ‘Ashada’ or fourth month of the traditional Hindu lunar calendar, corresponding to June-July of the Gregorian calendar, this event is now an integral part of Hyderabad’s identity.

The festival revolves around Goddess Mahankali, worshipped in her numerous forms. While the most ardent celebrations occur in the twin cities of Hyderabad and Secunderabad, the festival is observed across Telangana and Andhra Pradesh.

The Sri Mahankaleshwara Temple in Pathar Gatti, just half a kilometer from the iconic Charminar, is renowned for its annual Bonalu celebrations. The temple is located on a narrow street lined with shops, and two cars can barely pass together on this road, yet it is lined with ceremonial chariots in procession during these celebrations.

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Dhum-Dham

The enthusiasm and energy of the occasion is described locally as ‘dhum-dham’ – a term that defies translation into English.

“This temple has celebrated Bonalu for about 30 to 40 years now,” recalled Yadagiri, a resident of the area. “It gets better and grander with each passing year, in the 25 years I’ve lived here,” he said, noting that photographers flock here year after year, as the street transforms during the festivities.

T Sridhar, another resident, reported that coming to the temple was a yearly family ritual. “We believe in Mahankaleshwara and come every year to seek her blessings,” he said.

Performances during Bonalu processions

Multiple saree-clad women waited as the ceremonies were yet to start

“I’ve been performing for 15 years now. I started when I was nine,” said Ravi Teja, a native of Vijayawada. Clad in ‘Mahankali black,’ a unique shade of black, to invoke the image of the goddess, he said he has been continuing a family tradition.

“Once my father passed away, I started doing this as well.” The dramatic performances during Bonalu show depictions from goddess Mahakali’s myth, lauding her greatness while cautioning against angering her. With representations of Rakshasas and goddesses, it is a tradition that allows the future generation to inherit the myth.

Many performers were seen getting ready for the festivities – some were in sarees and crowns – others were painted black, blue, and yellow.

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Another performer getting blue face paint

“We have come from Mamalapuram in Tamil Nadu to decorate the temple for this festival,” said one member of the team busy decorating the temple and the street leading up to it. Coming from far away, their company was responsible for making the temple look grander than usual.

“I have come to cover Bonalu for the first time,” Vikram Aditya, from Tenali in Andhra Pradesh, said. He plans to capture photographs of the festivities. “I’ve been following the Bonalu festivities all across the city. With this week’s celebrations I’ll have completed my fourth week covering the festival he said.

A documentary photographer with five years of work experience, Vikram is full of excitement.

(Edited by Rosamma Thomas)

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