Thiruvananthapuram’s Santha celebrates last Christmas

Kerala

By K A Shaji

December 25, 2022

Santha Bakery boasts of the legacy of Mambally Bapu who baked the first Indian version of the Christmas cake.

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Generations of bakers and confectioners at the bakery have defined anything baked in Thiruvananthapuram for the past eight decades.

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Ailing for a long time due to financial and administrative reasons, the bakery will wind up operations by the beginning of January.

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Other bakeries, including Mambally Bakery in Thalassery, are carrying forward the legacy of Bapu

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Bapu had mastered the art of biscuit-making while in Burma. He started baking over 40 varieties of biscuits, rusks, bread, and buns after returning home.

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Before Christmas in 1883, Murdoch Brown, a British planter, visited Bapu’s biscuit factory with a rich plum cake and asked him to bake a similar one.

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The foreigner gave Bapu essential ingredients for the cake — cocoa, dates, raisins and other dry fruit.

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Instead of brandy, Bapu used locally brewed liquor. A blacksmith in Dharmadam made a mould based on Bapu’s description.

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20 December 1883, after tasting the first plum cake made in India, Brown certified it “excellent” and the planter ordered a dozen more.

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Kerala has the largest plum cake market in India, and the Mambally family has a significant share in the cake business.

Kerala