The renaissance of India’s regional cuisines via community cookbooks

Featured By Prutha Chakraborty January 22, 2023 Read the article

Ananya Pujary, who is currently pursuing a master’s degree in Data Analytics and Computational Social Science in the US, is still close to her Tulu roots.

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Her roots are from the Billava community, Tulu-speaking toddy drawers who led the animistic worship of ancestors like the “bhootas”.

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She grew up hearing stories about her community’s history from her family, who largely rely on oral retellings of recipes, traditions, and rituals.

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Along with her friends and former classmates — Khushi Gupta and Muskaan Pal — Pujary runs the Indian Community Cookbooks Project (ICCP).

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The ICCP features a list of curated timelines of region-wise cuisines and their histories via cookbooks written from time immemorial.

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Initially, the project was just about preserving a single community’s recipes and food traditions.

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However, after thorough research, they discovered that there was no digital archive of recipes and food traditions for a number of communities across India.

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Khushi Gupta says that such age-old traditional recipes tell us a story about our ancestors.

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All the Indian cuisines are linked to their sociopolitical histories, says Muskaan Pal.

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The trio plans to make ICCP a self-sufficient platform in the future.

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